Riad Al Bahi: A Hidden Gem in Rabat’s Medina

A journey through time: the fascinating story of Riad Al Bahi

When Emmanuel and Hanane Muguet, a French-Lebanese couple with a passion for heritage and history, came across a crumbling house in the heart of Rabat in 2014, nothing suggested that this dilapidated building would become one of the highlights of Moroccan hospitality. Beneath the layers of plaster and stucco, the walls of the former residence concealed far more than a simple architectural past. Meticulous restoration work revealed arabesques of rare delicacy, echoing the Andalusian motifs of the Alhambra. The comparison, suggested by a Spanish researcher specialising in Andalusia who visited the riad, set the tone: this would be a place that pays tribute both to history and to art.

It would take more than six years of work to transform the ruin into a charming, tranquil retreat. Every element was designed with absolute respect for local architecture. Craftspeople from all over Morocco created each detail to measure. For Hanane, a Lebanese woman exiled by the civil war, the project went far beyond a straightforward investment: it was an act of love for Rabat, a city that recalls the Beirut of her childhood, during Lebanon’s golden age before the devastation of conflict. This intimate connection is tangible in every corner of the riad, where the personal story of the owners intertwines with that of the house, bringing an authenticity and a distinctive creative energy that give the place its soul.

An oasis of calm in the heart of Rabat

Set within Rabat’s medina, Riad Al Bahi offers an intimate, peaceful setting away from the city’s bustle. The moment you step inside, a sense of calm and understated elegance takes over. Shaded patios, centred around a gently trickling fountain and lush greenery that blends naturally with the architecture, invite you to slow down. Every area has been designed for relaxation, whether under a leafy pergola, on the sun-drenched roof terrace or in one of the cosy lounges where time seems to pause. As Hanane sums it up: “What matters above all is that you feel at home.”

In some ways, this atmosphere recalls that of Le Jardin des Douars, tucked away in the hills around Essaouira, where nature and architecture blend seamlessly. At Riad Al Bahi, however, the setting is defined by a subtle balance between the city’s energy and the quiet of a private sanctuary, ideal for unwinding after a day exploring Morocco’s capital. Riad Al Bahi enjoys a prime location in the heart of Rabat’s medina, with easy access to the city’s key sights, including the Kasbah of the Oudayas, Rabat beach and the Hassan Tower.

Art as a guiding thread: a unique collection

Riad Al Bahi cannot be described without mentioning its artistic dimension. Driven by her passion for art and her own life story, Hanane has turned the riad into a genuine exhibition space. The collection “Les Larmes d’Or” (“Tears of Gold”) is a perfect example. Comprising bespoke pieces by a local artist that combine painting and collage, it tells the story of Beirut and Rabat—two cities close to the owner’s heart. Can you spot the two paintings dedicated to Beirut, subtly tucked away in the riad’s corners? Look closely at one of the works and you will even find, beneath delicate touches of gold paint, fragments of photographs of Beirut’s port after its devastation in 2020, as well as the outline of a woman’s face, an expression of pain transformed by the act of creation.

In one of the lounges, two exceptional pieces immediately catch the eye: caftans once owned by Yves Saint Laurent. Acquired at La Mamounia’s 2015 auction of Pierre Bergé and the couturier’s personal collection of Moroccan art, these treasures recall how deeply these fashion pioneers loved Morocco. Here, the caftans enjoy a second life, displayed as artworks in their own right and bearing witness to a remarkable cultural heritage.

While Riad Al Bahi stands in a tradition of Moroccan riads and hotels where art and hospitality go hand in hand, it sets itself apart through its ability to weave a personal yet universal narrative through each work on display, offering guests an experience that is as emotional as it is aesthetic.

Architecture between tradition and modernity

Riad Al Bahi is a showcase of Moroccan architecture, painstakingly restored with patience and profound respect for local heritage. Behind its discreet façade lies a true architectural treasure: finely carved wall details, original stone columns dating back many years, and a carefully judged dialogue between traditional materials and contemporary features. Eschewing stereotypes, the owners chose a pared-back, refined decor, avoiding the visual overload sometimes associated with riads.

Every detail—from the handcrafted light fixtures to the bespoke, high-end furniture—has been designed to blend seamlessly with the property’s timeless character, guided by Hanane’s artistic direction. The result is a feeling of serenity, where stone and greenery exist in perfect balance. Solid wooden doors, intricately engraved by local artisans, open onto spaces bathed in natural light that shifts gently throughout the day. In fine weather, a glass roof slides open, allowing warm sunlight to pour into the central patio. On the upper level, a terrace awaits, providing an ideal spot to enjoy the quiet above the medina’s lively streets.

The limited number of rooms at Riad Al Bahi preserves a sense of intimacy, while combining modern comfort with traditional charm. Each one is thoughtfully decorated, reflecting the richness of Moroccan heritage and creating a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The room names—La Nomade (The Nomad), L’Amazigh (The Amazigh) or L’Andalouse (The Andalusian), for example—evoke specific cultural themes and add a distinctive character to a stay here. The furniture, crafted by skilled artisans under Hanane’s supervision, gives the riad a singular, authentic feel. The bathrooms, which did not exist in the original house, were also entirely designed by the owners, integrating modern fittings while respecting traditional aesthetics and ensuring optimal comfort for guests.

This interplay between old and new also calls to mind the architectural choices at Hotel Alfonso XIII in Seville, where every corner is a celebration of local craftsmanship.

A culinary journey between Morocco and Lebanon

A stay at Riad Al Bahi would not be complete without discovering its kitchen, which forms a genuine bridge between two cultures. Open from breakfast through to dinner for hotel guests and non-residents alike, the restaurant offers a dual menu, combining Moroccan flavours with Lebanese specialities. This pairing reflects the owners’ love for Morocco and Hanane’s attachment to her Lebanese roots. Each Lebanese dish, rooted in traditional recipes and carefully selected by the owner, is prepared with a level of precision and skill that surprises even Lebanese connoisseurs, by cooks trained specifically for this menu. The selection changes regularly, ensuring the experience remains fresh and inspiring.

On the Moroccan side, classics such as lamb tagine with prunes or almond pastilla stand out for their flawless execution and the use of top-quality local ingredients. Meals can be served in the lounge, in the patio or on the terrace under the stars, making for a memorable moment.

This focus on gastronomy places Riad Al Bahi among Rabat’s leading dining addresses, where culinary excellence complements the property’s outstanding setting. A colourful experience that will delight both fans of Moroccan traditions and curious gourmets keen to explore the flavours of Lebanon.